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New York Cheese--A Vanishing Delicacy? by Nancy Vars
Photos by H. J. Borzner
New York farmers turned to dairying shortly after the Erie Canal opened the West and
wheat-growing supremacy was shifted to a new "nations breadbasket." There were no methods of
refrigeration and milk not used by the dairyman's family, or sold in a neighboring village, was
made into butter or cheese on the farm. Although procedures were crude and quality depended on
the ingenuity of the farmer, or his wife, New York State was soon recognized as a producer of
exceptionally fine cheese.
One of the first to appreciate the commercial value of this delectable commodity was a
gentleman from Herkimer who, in 1826, established himself as a cheese buyer. He traveled around
from farm to farm, sampling the cheese and buying the best. In a short time he was not only
supplying New York City retailers with cheese, but also those in Philadelphia. And before long
he was exporting cheddar to England, the country of its origin.
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3.ACID TEST. Twice each month samples of milk from each dairy supplying the Colosse Cheese
Factory are given a test to determine butter-fat content. John Phillips, who also runs tests for
other concerns, enters the results of analyses in the factory's log.
4.DRAWING OFF THE WHEY. John F. O'Mara rakes the curd to the sides of the vat to speed the
draining of the liquid residue, or whey. Curd is the solid which is formed when whole milk,
to which rennet is added, is heated and held at a temperature of 85 degrees for a short period.
After the milk has thickened it is slashed with wire knives and then agitated for more than an
hour. Then the curd is allowed to settle to the bottom of the vat and the liquid is drawn off. |
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